핑크 수련의 호수(탈레 부아댕 ทะเลบัวแดง)

환호성 지르는 붉은 수련의 바다 [조용철의 마음풍경]

2025. 1. 19. 07:01

 

 

어둠을 뚫고 수련을 만나러 간다.
밤새 취한 하늘이 얼굴을 붉히더니
잔잔한 호수마저 붉게 물들인다.

물길 위로 미끄러지는 작은 통통배
파문 끝엔 드넓은 붉은 꽃의 바다
마침내 기다리던 태양이 떠오른다.

 

밤새 어둠 속에서 꽃을 피운 수련
일제히 하늘 향해 환호성을 터뜨린다.
환한 미소 지으며 새날을 맞는다.

 

 

■ 촬영정보

「 오래전 예약한 저가 항공으로 해외여행을 다녀왔다. 태국 우돈타니 탈레 부아댕(Red Lotus Lake) 호수. 삼성 갤럭시 24 울트라.
」

 © 중앙일보

 

 

Nong Han Kumphawapi

Talay Buadeng (ทะเลบัวแดง ) :The Red Lotus Lake

Kumphawapi District, Udon Thani 41110, Thailand

The Red Lotus Lake: A Woman in Traditional Costume Collects Lillies

 

The lake, whose official name is Nong Han Kumphawapi

The banks of the Red Lotus Lake also provide the backdrop for the ancient Isan legend of Nang Ai.  This gives the lake a truly mythical feel besides its natural beauty.

Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake

 

At approximately 8km long and 3km wide, the freshwater lake at Nong Han Kumphawapi is an important water source that sustains a variety of fish, birds and plants. The lake feeds into the Lam Pao River, another waterway which plays a significant role for the inhabitants of Udon Thani province. Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake is also an expanse of water that holds a special place in the hearts of local people thanks to an ancient legend.

 

 

태국 우돈타니 탈레 부아댕(ทะเลบัวแดง, Red Lotus Lake ):붉은 연꽃 호수

Haeo, Kumphawapi District, Udon Thani 41110, Thailand

Red Lotus Sea Talay Buadeng Lake in  Kumphawapi

 

The legend of the lake

 

The Isaan region of north-east Thailand is an area that is rich in folklore.

 

One story tells of a tragic love triangle involving a princess called Nang Ai and two of her suitors, Prince Phadaeng and Prince Pangkhee.

 

It’s an epic story that involves magical kingdoms, reincarnation, love, rejection and revenge.

 

According to one part of the tale, Prince Phadaeng wanted to avenge the death of Nang Ai and a fierce battle ensued with an army of mythical nagas. The serpent army flooded the scene of the battle resulting in the formation of Nong Han Lake.

 

There are a number of variations of the legend, but the story is well-known to Isaan residents and has also been made into a movie. This all adds to the romantic imagery of the lake and makes it even more of an attraction to Thai visitors.

The Red Lotus Lake in Udon Thani, Thailand

 

‘Red Lotus Lake’ is the English translation of the lake’s popular Thai name ‘Talay Bua Daeng’.  Actually, a more accurate and direct translation is ‘Red Lotus Sea’.  This though creates three errors in translation. 

 

Firstly, the flowers are Tropical Water Lilies(or Nymphéas) and not Lotuses. 

Secondly, the predominant colour is pink and not red.   

Thirdly it is clearly a lake rather than a sea.

 

 

 

 

Red-Lotus-Lake-Udon-Thani-Thailand

 

 

The sea of red lotus, Lake Nong Harn, Udon Thani, Thailand

 

A Tourist Enjoying the Red Lotus Lake in a Blue Canoe

 

Nang Ai:The legend Behind the Lake

 

The legend of Nang Ai is one of two great narratives of Isan storytelling (the other is Phya Khankhaak: The Toad King).  There are many versions of the Nang Ai legend of which the original is an epic poem first written on palm leaf manuscripts.  Only fragments of this now survive.  An English translation of the poem by Wajuppa Tossa is available on amazon.com of which a formative introduction can be read here. 

 

In the poem, Nang Ai, though many life cycles, is always paired with Phangki.  In each life cycle, Nang Ai is always the dutiful wife whilst Phangki is uncaring and ungrateful.  Nang Ai eventually tires of the situation and prays that in the next life cycle that they never become husband and wife again.  In her despair, she goes further and expresses a revengeful longing that Phangki will die at her own hand.  These wishes will ultimately lead to catastrophe for both Nang Ai and her entire kingdom.

 

In that next life, Nang Ai is born a princess to a Khmer King during the 13th Century.  Famed for her beauty she captures the heart of Prince Phalanges of Pat Pong City with whom she also falls deeply in love.  Elsewhere, Phangki is born a Prince to Phaya Nak, the Grand Nāga who rules the Deeps.

The Red Lotus Lake: Nang Ai Finds Her True Love in Phalanges

 

The Death of Nang Ai and the Birth of the Lake

 

During a rocket festival organised to end an eight-year drought, Nang Ai unknowingly kills and eats Phangki.   Phangki had transformed himself into an albino squirrel in order to spy on his former wife.  Nang Ai, not realising the true nature of the squirrel, orders it hunted and cooked after seeing it in the Palace Gardens.  The meat from the squirrel miraculously expands providing enough food for the whole kingdom.  Thus, she has been granted the wish she made in her previous life but with terrible consequences.

 

Phaya Nak, enraged at his son’s death, sends Nagas to the surface to destroy the Khmer Kingdom and to kill anyone who ate the meal cooked from the squirrel.  The Nagas, as they rise to the surface, cause a flood using the muddy waters from their underworld home.  The rising waters destroy the Khmer kingdom and drown its people. Phalanges tries to save Nang Ai, but she is swept from his horse by a flick of a Naga’s tail and is lost.  Phalanges, in his turn, dies from grief and rises up as a ghost warrior with a ghost army to fight the Nagas in an enduring, endless battle. 

 

As the floodwaters finally recede, they leave behind the Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake.   In eternal remembrance to Nang Ai’s beauty and her tragic love, the Lake is blessed to blossom every year with millions of Pink Tropical Water Lilies.

Discover Udon Thani: The Red Lotus Lake and the Legend of Nang Ai

 

When to Visit The Red Lotus Lake

 

The Red Lotus Lake is at its most magical during the winter months of November through to February.  This is the peak blossoming season for Tropical Water Lilies.  As every Lake Aficionado will advise: Go Early! For it is only in the morning when the Lilies flowers open.  When the sun rises, the flowers shut throwing away their magic and wonder.

 

It is this writer’s preference to arrive at the lake at between 6:00 am and 6:30 am to experience the lake with the rising sun and before the crowds steal away some of the serenity. At this time, you can still find yourself isolated in a secluded spot amongst the flowers with your only companions being Great White Egrets and the occasional fisherman; both hunting for their respective breakfasts.

 

For those who are not naturally early morning risers, salvation is available from coffee stalls next to where you board your boat.  There are also two surprisingly excellent cafes that serve both Thai and Western food.